How To Prepare Seed Potatoes For Planting: 73 Fun Facts

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73 Fun Facts How To Prepare Seed Potatoes For Planting | Potatoes

• Cut the potato into pieces that are 1 inch wide or larger, each with at least one or two eyes. Eyes are the small growth points where sprouts emerge and are typically located in a dimple on the potato. The pieces should be roughly the same size and should weigh roughly 2 1/2 ounces when fresh. At this point, the seed potatoes can be planted immediately or cured for a short period of time. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes can also be grown under black polythene sheets. The tubers are planted through slits in the polythene. The advantages of this method are that there is no need to earth up, and new potatoes form just below the surface, so there’s little or no need to dig. - Source: Internet
• Prepare seed potatoes for planting: If your seed potato is golf ball size or smaller go ahead and plant it whole. Larger than that and you’ll want to cut it into pieces that have 2 or 3 eyes each. Fill the box with soil and plant the potatoes 4 to 6 inches deep. At the end of the season, just tear or cut the box open, pull out potatoes and compost the rest. - Source: Internet
• They are typically grown from seed potatoes, which are small pieces of a mature tuber cut into smaller pieces for sowing. The seed potatoes are typically cured, or dried, for a short period of time to protect them from rotting in the cool, moist soil. Different schools of thought exist on how long seed potatoes should be dried before planting or whether they need to be dried at all. - Source: Internet
• Make sure the potatoes stay covered with soil. Those exposed to the sun will develop toxic green patches. (If they do form, cut them off and eat the rest of the potato.) - Source: Internet
• The weather, weeds, pest insects and diseases can all impact on the success of your garden. Mounding will help protect your potatoes from the elements. Carefully hoe around sprouts to keep your crop weed free. When watering, water the soil not the foliage to avoid blight. Be vigilant and stop unwanted insects and diseases from ruining your plants. - Source: Internet
• If you decide to cut your seed potatoes, cut them into pieces so that each piece has at least one eye (though more than one eye per piece is fine too), and is roughly at least an ounce (28 g.). Then allow the seed potatoes pieces to cure in a cool but humid place for 2-3 days. You can also sprinkle the cut seed potatoes with an anti-fungal powder at this time. After curing, they should be planted as soon as possible. - Source: Internet
• As the seed potatoes produce sprouts, remove all but the topmost four on each tuber. This ensures that these get all the goodness of the seed potato. The ideal sprout length by planting time is 2.5cm /1in although this is not critical. If the sprouts appear too early for planting the potatoes outside, simply rub them off cleanly and they will re-sprout in a couple of weeks. - Source: Internet
• Drop the potatoes inside the solution. Let them soak for five minutes before removing them from the solution. This kills most bacterial and fungal diseases, according to OISAT, a European agricultural resource service for farmers and extension workers. - Source: Internet
• Where you get your seed potatoes is important. While it may seem like a good idea to buy some potatoes from the grocery store and use them as seed potatoes, the potatoes in the grocery store have been treated with chemicals that help prevent them from sprouting, and they have not been tested for common seed potatoes diseases. It is best to buy seed potatoes from a reputable seed potato dealer. These companies will sell seed potatoes that are certified disease free and will have treated the seed potatoes to help prevent fungus and rot. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes fresh from the ground is a great treat for the home gardener. But, before you can harvest potatoes, you need to plant seed potatoes. Growing seed potatoes is easy and affordable, but there are a few things you need to know about planting seed potatoes that will make sure you are successful. - Source: Internet
• The potatoes we grow in the Southeast are considered ‘new’ potatoes, regardless of size, because they’re being harvested off plants that are still alive. These ‘new’ potatoes have very fragile skins, are easily damaged and will not cure in the ground due to the heat of summer soils. Lucky for us, we’re just in it for the goods and can still enjoy quality potatoes for food if not for seed. - Source: Internet
• Plant ’earlies’ about 30cm (12in) apart from each other, in rows which are 60cm (2ft) apart. Plant maincrop potatoes about 35cm (15in) apart, in rows which are 75cm (2ft 6in) apart. In If you are planting more than one row, rows should (ideally) run in a north-south direction to allow each plant its full share of sun. - Source: Internet
• Gardeners are very much a “do it yourself” lot. We thoroughly enjoy participating in every step of the gardening process. The most avid gardeners harvest, dry, and save seeds for next year’s planting. So, why not make your own seed potatoes? The steps below show you how to make seed potatoes. If any of the spuds in your kitchen pantry have eyes, you have what you need to make them - Source: Internet
• Dig a trench in your bed about 4”-6” deep; triangle or standard hoes work well. Lay seed pieces eyes-up in the trench at 8”-12” for standard potato varieties and 12”-16” for fingerling varieties. You may wish to lay drip tape into the trench next to your seed potatoes to conserve water and to ensure that any water you put out gets to your crop and not your weeds. Cover seed (and drip tape, if used) with several inches of soil and tamp lightly….and you’re done! - Source: Internet
• Some gardeners like to save seed potatoes from year to year. This practice should be done at your own risk. Seed potatoes can sometimes carry over soil borne diseases and, without being able to test your seed potatoes as seed companies can, may put your entire future harvest at risk. - Source: Internet
• Chitting is simply the practice of allowing potatoes to form sprouts before planting. This is beneficial for many reasons. First, there are sometimes a dozen or more eyes on a single potato. We don’t know which eyes will be the first to sprout, or which sprouts will be the strongest of those. Chitting allows the gardener to see which eyes are sprouting first. - Source: Internet
• Store all potatoes in a cool dark place until you are ready to eat them or sell them. A light-free storage place is critical to keep potatoes from ‘greening’. DO NOT EAT green potatoes; they contain a toxin that is detrimental to the central nervous system. Any green potatoes should be discarded. No green? No problem. - Source: Internet
• If grown in well balanced soil, Potatoes will typically produce on a 1:10 ratio of pounds of seed planted to pounds of potato crop harvested. If your yields are higher, great job!! Your soil’s in great shape & the taters are thanking you with their abundance. If your yields are lower, it could be a varietal characteristic or an indication that something is out of balance in your soil. GET A SOIL TEST to help you figure out what’s deficient in your soil so you can amend for your next plantings. - Source: Internet
• Few crops are as rewarding to grow as potatoes. From watching their little eyes open and emerge from the soil after planting to peaking around the base of the plants to see the first tubers forming to finally harvesting a bountiful crop of fresh potatoes…no matter if it’s your first or 50th crop the whole process is magical. Got questions? We’ve got answers…. - Source: Internet
• Spring is the best time to plant potatoes – from the beginning of April to the end of May. At this time, the soil should be fairly moist to dry and loose. Make sure you know the ripening time of each variety, so whether they are early potatoes or late ones. - Source: Internet
• In the southeast, we typically plant our potatoes in March. Consider waking up your potatoes in mid-February by green-sprouting them for several weeks before planting. Place whole seed potatoes one or two layers deep in a box then leave them in a warm_60-85 degrees_ dark place to encourage their eyes to pop. Be careful when handling them to avoid breaking off sprouted eyes. - Source: Internet
• In addition, potatoes are a fairly slow growing crop. Many times, they require 90 to 100+ days before harvest. Chitting before the frost date allows you to hit the ground running when the danger of frost has passed. The plants will be several days (even weeks) ahead of sproutless tubers. This shaves some of the growth time off of the top. - Source: Internet
• Grow potatoes in a large box filled with compost or potting mix - no hilling needed. Use any packing box at least 18 inches deep with the bottom intact, and fold the top flaps into the box for structural stability. To ensure it didn’t collapse before the season’s end, I used a second box inside the first. - Source: Internet
• If you are just growing a few potatoes I think it is best to opt for earlies. They are the ones you grow for flavour which is always at its best when freshly harvested. Main crop potatoes are inexpensive to buy and take up a lot of space for a long time. Also potato blight, a disease which causes collapse of the plants, is a problem in many areas from midsummer onwards. If you grow early potatoes you should avoid it. - Source: Internet
• Cutting seed potatoes is not necessary to do before planting them. Whether to cut them or not is a personal choice for a home gardener. On one hand, cutting your seed potatoes will help you to stretch your seed potatoes a bit so that you can grow more potatoes plants but, on the other hand, cutting seed potatoes increases the chances of disease and rot. - Source: Internet
• Keep them in a light airy position at a temperature of roughly 10°C / 50°F. The idea is to speed up the ageing of potatoes and to get the first sprouting shoots to grow dark in colour. This indicates good strong growth. Potatoes which are kept in the dark and warm conditions produce pale, weak shoots which break easily. - Source: Internet
• Small crops of potatoes can also be grown in large, deep containers. This is a good way to get an early batch of new potatoes. Fill the bottom 15cm (6in) of the container with potting compost and plant one seed potato just below this. As the new stems start growing, keep adding compost until the container is full. - Source: Internet
• Growing site. Potatoes require full sun for optimal growth, so pick a bed site with 6-8 hours or more of direct sunlight a day. Work fertilizer and compost into the soil to prepare for planting. Potatoes are aggressive rooting plants, so they produce their best crop in light, loose, well-drained, but moist soil. - Source: Internet
• To cut your seed potatoes simply use a sharp knife, select a line that will give each piece at least 4 eyes and cut off a big chunk! Be careful to not cut through any of the eyes as this will destroy the future sprout. It’s that simple, suddenly 1 seed potato becomes 2 or 3 allowing for more potato plants from less seed. After cutting seed potato I like to have a piece that is at least 2 or 3 inches long and wide. - Source: Internet
• In the UK mid-March is regarded as the ideal time to plant the sprouted potatoes in the open ground. You can start them earlier in potato bags in the conservatory or in gro-bags in a poly-tunnel. Basically you plant them outdoors to give them enough time to grow below ground, so that when they emerge danger of frost damage has passed. Potatoes are not frost hardy. - Source: Internet
• When you buy seed potatoes, look for tubers that are firm and healthy, without blemishes, soft spots and damage. When you get them home keep them somewhere cool, but frost free, until you are ready to deal with them. Never store in polythene bags because they become damp and may start to deteriorate. - Source: Internet
• It’s very easy to make seed potatoes for the gardening season. Choose your favorite potato variety. You can use any potatoes, from traditional white potatoes to Idaho and Russet. All you need are potatoes with eyes, and you’re on your way to growing a great crop of spuds! - Source: Internet
• The traditional planting method is to dig a narrow trench 12cm (5in) deep. Space the tubers 30cm (1ft) apart for earlies and 37cm (15in) for maincrops, in rows 60cm (2ft) apart for earlies and 75cm (30in) apart for maincrops. Apply a general-purpose fertiliser at this stage. - Source: Internet
• Planting seed potatoes at the right time is important. Seed potatoes growing in soil that is too cold and wet may rot while potatoes that grow in soil that is too warm, may not produce well. It is best to plant seed potatoes after the chance of hard frost has past, but while you are still experiencing light frosts. - Source: Internet
• With the seed ends up, set potatoes or pieces in a spot that stays around 70 degrees F and gets indirect light. I think the egg carton above is a great way to hold the potatoes up (and also move them to the garden later). Once you see short, stubby sprouts in a week or two, they’re ready to go in the garden. But don’t wait too long—leggy sprouts are fragile and break off easily. - Source: Internet
• Learning how to cut seed potatoes is an important first step before growing these nutritious and delicious tubers at home. According to the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service , potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) grow anywhere within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2a to 11b, where they are cultivated as a cool-season crop. - Source: Internet
• If you buy your seed potatoes later in the season early varieties have nearly always started to produce shoots. These are often weak, misshapen and damaged and are best removed. You can then start the chitting process from scratch. - Source: Internet
• If you live in an area where there are soil born viral or bacterial diseases that affect plants in the Solanaceae family (Potatoes, Tomatoes, Peppers & Egg Plants). Then you might want to reconsider cutting your seed potatoes. Many garden experts recommend against cutting seed potatoes if you have these types of diseases in your garden. The idea is by cutting your seed potatoes you open them up to more vulnerability to soil born problems. - Source: Internet
• Learning how to cut seed potatoes is simple but is easy to do incorrectly. First, sanitize the blade of a sharp paring knife by wiping it with rubbing alcohol, which will help prevent infection. Small potatoes are typically planted whole, while seed potato pieces are cut from a tuber that is the size of a chicken egg or slightly larger. When choosing a tuber to cut into seed pieces, avoid potatoes that have any obvious signs of damage or rot as well as those that are already sprouting. - Source: Internet
• Chit your potatoes (pre-sprout) for four to five weeks from the beginning of March on a bright and warm windowsill. This method ensures a harvest two to three weeks earlier and allows you to grow varieties with a mid-late ripening time. In this way, the potatoes can usually be harvested before the dreaded late blight (Phytophthora infestans) wreaks havoc. Take care when planting, so that the long shoots of the sprouted potatoes do not break off. - Source: Internet
• Can you plant normal potatoes? Of course, a hobby gardener may accidentally drop a normal eating potato into the soil, where it will form new daughter tubers. However, many potatoes are treated with sprout-inhibiting agents so that they do not start sprouting while in storage. The agent is absorbed into the tuber after application, so it cannot simply be washed off. When buying potatoes, therefore, make sure that they are untreated. In organic farming, such agents are generally prohibited. - Source: Internet
• Second, any seed potatoes you buy should be CERTIFIED DISEASE FREE. Potatoes intended to be sold for seed are tested for a panel of diseases before receiving a government-issued ‘disease-free’ certificate. Any seed lots that test positive are not certified and are not sold. Without this assurance, you could unknowingly introduce diseases into your crop and your soil that could persist for many years. So, if you like growing potatoes, don’t risk planting seed from questionable sources because there’s no way of knowing what else you’ll be planting. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are easy to grow yourself and are an essential part of any self-sufficient garden. As well as knowing how to chit and plant potato seeds, it is also important to know when and how to earth up the potatoes. Here you will learn how to successfully grow potatoes and which potato tubers to use. - Source: Internet
• Tip: Divide potatoes: Potato tubers can also be divided. However, this must be done before sprouting, so around the end of February. Cut potatoes with a sterile, sharp knife, making sure that both halves have eyes (tiny buds) and let the cut dry out. The shoots will later form from the eyes. Divide the tubers well in advance of planting to ensure the wound has time to heal and no pathogens in the soil can take root. - Source: Internet
• As potato plants have relatively high nutrient requirements, we recommend growing legumes (Fabaceae) such as beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) or peas (Pisum sativum) in the crop rotation the year before potato cultivation. These plants fix atmospheric nitrogen in the soil. Growing winter greens is also an ideal pre-crop to potatoes, as this adds a lot of organic matter to the soil. The combination with various other vegetables and herbs has a positive effect on both soil quality and potato yield. You can find out more about the advantages and ideal companion plants for potatoes in our article dedicated to the topic. - Source: Internet
• Potatoes prefer soil that has been amended in the Fall with your amendment(s) of choice &/or compost. Some growers will cover crop spring potato beds with Canola/Rape, oats or barley_ something that will hold the soil over the winter but be easy to kill and incorporate before planting their potatoes. Other growers prefer to leave spring potato beds fallow and weed-free for ease of getting into the field as early as possible. Whatever bed preparation method you choose, potatoes DO NOT like to be next to actively decomposing green matter. Leave time between tillage and planting to allow green matter to break down; 2-6 weeks is a good time frame. - Source: Internet
• One way to combat the disease issue is to let your seed potatoes cure for a few days after cutting and before planting. To cure them you simply need to let the cut potatoes sit in an airy, dry place that is out of the sun for 2 or 3 days. The cut side of the potato will dry and harden and get a leathery texture. This “hardens” up the cut side of the potato and helps keep soil born diseases out of the potato plant. - Source: Internet
• When you are ready to plant, dig a trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep in the growing site you previously prepared for your potatoes. Then, plant your sets 12-15 inches apart with the cut side facing down. Next, cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. After about two weeks, your potato sprouts will begin emerging and you’ll need to add another 3-4 inches of soil, filling in around the sprouts. If you have more than one trenched row of potatoes, you’ll need to space your rows 3 feet apart. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes have been grown to physical maturity meaning they were cured in the ground before harvest and are able to be stored successfully to produce next year’s crop. You’ll notice that most seed potatoes come from northern latitudes like Colorado, Idaho and Maine. These climates have the kind of weather potatoes need to produce high quality, disease-free seed crops. - Source: Internet
• Instead of planting the seed from potato flowers, you’ll get easier and quicker results by planting cut-up pieces or small-sized tubers called “seed potatoes”. Get certified disease-free seed potatoes from local or online nurseries in early spring. You can also cut up the ones that are sprouting in the pantry. - Source: Internet
• With the exception of plant breeders, we propagate potatoes vegetatively or asexually; potatoes of the same variety are genetically identical to their parents. So, the ‘seed’ that you’ll find to grow potatoes looks like, well, a potato. However, there are some significant differences that separate seed potatoes from the ones you find in the grocery store. - Source: Internet
• There’s a very important reason we keep potatoes in the dark. If potatoes are exposed to sunlight, they will start to photosynthesize and produce a green pigment under the skin. This ‘greening’ IS TOXIC to anything that eats it!! It’s a great strategy for the potato to avoid being eaten but not so great for us if we plan on harvesting an edible crop. Hilling potatoes ensures that forming tubers are fully covered with soil and are protected from the sun’s rays. With that in mind, if you see any potatoes at the soil line, be sure to cover them promptly to prevent greening. - Source: Internet
• In the Southeast, soils get too hot in the summer to grow great potatoes. Varieties with DTM beyond 120 days is not advisable. Shoot to have all your taters up by the end of July at the latest for best quality. - Source: Internet
• Once you get your potatoes in the kitchen, what it looks like on the outside isn’t as important as the interior texture — the mix of starch and water — that tells you how to cook it. Floury potatoes have more starch than water so they’re good for baking; waxy ones have more water than starch and hold up well in salads or during roasting. All-purpose potatoes, as the name implies, are the most versatile and will work for any of your cooking creations. Read the catalog description of each variety to find the potato’s texture. - Source: Internet
• As your potato plants grow, your potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. That is why potatoes require periodic hilling to ensure developing potatoes aren’t exposed to sunlight. When your potato stems reach about 8 inches high pile enough dirt around the stems to bring the dirt level about halfway up the stem. Forming these small hills around the stems will keep your potatoes from pushing out of the ground. - Source: Internet
• Feed your plants and they will feed you. Replenishing nutrients used by your plants ensures they will grow to their full potential. Potatoes are gross feeders, feed every three to four weeks during key growth periods. For potatoes planted in garden beds feed with a specialty fertiliser like Tui Potato Food, which contains high levels of phosphorus and potassium promote healthy tuber production and plant growth. - Source: Internet
• When the foliage of your potato plants turns yellow discontinue watering and let the potato vines die back to the ground before harvesting. It will take about 2-3 weeks for the vines to die after the foliage turns yellow. Waiting to dig out the potatoes until the plant dies allows thick skins to form around the potatoes, which reduces peeling and bruising during harvest. - Source: Internet
• Sure, you can find a few types of potatoes in the grocery store, but grow your own and the options skyrocket — large, small, long, stubby, red, blue or yellow - there’s a potato for every taste. Local garden centers often have several types, but if you want to experiment, you might explore the offerings of a few of the online sources listed below. Potatoes fall into the six shape and color categories shown in the chart and include dozens of varieties in each one. You’ll find tried-and-true heirlooms that have been around for generations, new varieties with improved taste or disease and pest resistance and everything in between. - Source: Internet
• Seed potatoes are fairly cold-tolerant and can go in the ground in early spring when soil temperatures reach 50 degrees F — about the time dandelions are blooming. But protect any new foliage from late frosts with landscape fabric or an old sheet. Damage caused to the foliage may not kill the plant but could set it back so you don’t get as many potatoes as you would have otherwise. - Source: Internet
• First, most potatoes in the grocery store have been treated with a sprout-inhibitor that prevents the potatoes’ eyes from developing while in storage and on the shelf. Seed potatoes are NEVER treated with sprout inhibitors. This alone can be the difference between growing potatoes successfully or not. - Source: Internet
• You can always dig around a bit to see how things are coming along. Generally, new potatoes will be present by day 60; they will be small and fragile. You can take a few if you just can’t wait any longer!! Most varieties will have good-sized tubers that are ready to harvest by 90 days. - Source: Internet
• In the southeast, potatoes are grown from March to May-July, depending on varietal days to maturity. Y’all know what else is growing March to July….WEEDS!! Oh, the weeds… You’ll have to manage those any way, you might as well go on and hill those taters in the process. Hilling uproots weeds as you pull the soil up around the potato plants. - Source: Internet
• As a guide early potatoes are ready to harvest from early to mid-summer as new potatoes for boiling and eating small. Second early are not as fast maturing as first early. Main crop varieties are for harvesting from mid to late summer as larger tubers for baking, mashing, roasting etc. They can also be stored. - Source: Internet
• Once frost kills the foliage or it dies back on its own, it’s time to dig. With a spading fork, start near the edge of the hill and work your way toward the main stem. After carefully digging the plant, go back and sift through the soil with your hands to find any potatoes that fell off below ground. - Source: Internet
• Grow your potatoes from Tui Certified Seed Potatoes – these are certified to ensure they are true to type, and will grow a healthy crop. Select a variety of seed potatoes that suits your tastes/how long you want to wait for your potatoes to be ready. View the list of Tui Seed Potato Varieties here, and click here for a guide to picking your potato variety. - Source: Internet
• As the weather starts to warm a bit in the spring it’s time to plant your seed potatoes. No matter what garden zone you live in, you usually start planting potatoes without any frost protection about 2 weeks before your last frost date. (To learn what garden zone you live in check out this post) - Source: Internet
• Potatoes need water, but they don’t need to be sitting in a puddle. Depending on the weather and your soil type, we can provide the potato plants with better drainage by periodically pulling up soil around the growing stems. Heavy rains will run off into the aisles and away from the potatoes. - Source: Internet
• I’m pretty excited to have a project to do with my dad. I think the last time we shared a hobby was high school basketball. I want to make sure we have some success, so it’s at least worth trying again next year. The packaging the seed potatoes came in offered some planting and growing recommendations, but I want to make sure we give our seed potatoes their best chance from preparation through planting and growing to harvest, so I did some research. - Source: Internet
• The most important part about seed potatoes is getting them off to a good start. This involved “chitting” them, in other words encouraging them to produce compact shoots which will grow vigorously when the tubers are planted in the ground or in containers. As some may know, commercial growers of potatoes don’t chit them before planting. For gardeners growing on vegetable plots, allotments and in growing bags and containers yield is all important. - Source: Internet
• Different varieties of potatoes have different Days To Maturity (DTM). It’s best to identify the variety you are growing and its DTM to give you an idea of when your crop will be ready to harvest. Count the days from planting to figure out target harvest dates per potato variety. - Source: Internet
• Keep in mind that potatoes grown in the Southeast will likely be harvested before the scorching heat of summer and will not get a chance to cure in the ground. This means skins will be very fragile and the potatoes will not keep as long as those that are allowed to fully mature and cure in the ground. You can expect Southeastern crops to store 1-3 months, depending on variety, potato size and storage conditions. Past 3 months, potatoes may start to dehydrate and deteriorate in quality. - Source: Internet
• Before you begin with your potatoes, check over them for any abnormalities in the flesh of the tubers. The skin should be clean and unbroken, and rather tough to protect the flesh within. There should be no holes or craters from pest damage, such as voles, worms, larvae, beetles, fungal infections, and more. Rot can also be a big issue during storage. Check for any draining fluids, brown flesh, mold, flat sides, or putrid smells that indicate rotting and spoiling. - Source: Internet

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